Tilting at Windbreaks: How Global Winds Shape the World of Wine

Where Don Quixote saw monsters to vanquish, today’s vignerons see forces to harness. On Pantelleria, that force goes by the name of Scirocco and is the defining factor of any given vintage. Originating in the Sahara desert, Scirocco carries hot, dry tropical air masses northward, gaining moisture and strength as it crosses the Mediterranean Sea. At its most powerful, the Scirocco’s gale-force gusts can last for up to 36 hours, causing mechanical damage to the vines, erosion of volcanic soil, and accelerated evaporation. These conditions often coincide with the most vulnerable phases of the prized Zibibbo grape’s vegetation cycle, leading to potential yield losses of up to 20%.

Local growers have adapted by digging deep with practices that enhance the connection between wind and vine. Nearly 40 kilometers of stone walls and shallow hollows known as conca shield the plants, while the UNESCO-recognized Alberello Pantesco method trains vines close to the ground for additional protection. “The basins with which the vines are bred in the alberello style,” says Pantelleria winemaker Antonio Rallo (Hall 16, Stand H43), “protect against strong winds, but we still try to prevent any damage by scheduling milling work in the periods when the wind blows less, according to forecasts and experience.”

The result? Wines that embody resilience, vibrancy, and a sense of place as intense as the Sirocco itself. “When it comes to Pantelleria,” Rolle emphasizes, “wind is not just a factor to be managed, but a resource that contributes to the uniqueness of our wine.”

Perhaps equally legendary is the powerful, cold, dry wind known as the Mistral, formed by the intersection of high pressure systems from the North Atlantic and low pressure systems near the Baltic Sea. Starting in central France, the Mistral accelerates along the Rhône Valley, shaping — often literally — the vines it touches along the way. With speeds of up to 90 km/h, the wind is both blessing and curse: its drying effects prevent mildew and rot, but its force poses significant challenge to vineyard management.

In the Rhône Valley, bush or gobelet pruning is a preferred technique to combat the Mistral’s intensity. This low-training system, mandatory in the appellation of Chateauneuf-du-Pape for certain grape varieties, reduces evapotranspiration, protects vines from mechanical damage, and enhances drought resistance. Additionally, natural windbreaks like trees and stone walls shield vulnerable vineyards, making those regions fertile ground for adopting sustainable techniques such as agroforestry.

Hall 10, the extensive French pavilion features producers from many of these wind-influenced regions where ProWein visitors can taste for themselves the Mistral’s influence. These structured reds from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, aromatic rosés from Provence, and juicy concentrated blends from Languedoc showcase how this powerful wind and adaptive strategies impact the health, quality, ripening, and yield of the fruit.

Established in 2017, the Petaluma Gap AVA in northern California epitomizes the concept of “wind to wine.” While there is no singular wind, the region’s defining characteristic is not soil or exposure but rather its role as a wind corridor. Cool air and fog from the Pacific are funneled through a gap in the coastal mountains across 1500 hectares of pastoral hill and valley vineyards, moderating temperatures and extending the ripening window for grapes.

This near-constant buffeting wind — present in up to 90% of afternoons during the growing season — can stress vines but also enhances fruit concentration. Some local winegrowers have adapted by aligning vineyard rows with wind flow and employing vertical shoot positioning (VSP) trellising to protect leaves and clusters while ensuring even sun exposure.

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah exhibit the characteristic hallmarks of extended wind exposure: thicker grape skins, smaller berries, and bold flavors. And a visit to Hall 12 at ProWein offers an excellent opportunity to experience the AVA’s distinctive style rooted in the interplay of wind and geography.

On the southern tip of Africa, where the Atlantic and Indian oceans converge, the Cape Doctor commands the Western Cape vineyards from spring (August and September) through late summer (March and April) with power and purpose. This relentless southeasterly wind that blows from False Bay, gathering speed as it barrels through the valleys and across the mountains and wine regions surrounding Cape Town. Gusts can exceed 160 km/h during the critical spring and summer months.

The Cape Doctor’s duality is evident even in its name, with the power to both heal and hurt. It keeps vineyards healthy by sweeping away humid air, reducing disease pressure, and moderating temperatures to help extend the growing season. Like the Föhn wind in Switzerland it is mild and dry and keeps things cool. However, prolonged exposure can damage vines, strip leaves, dry clusters, and erode valuable topsoil.

To combat these challenges, many growers have also turned to tree-lined windbreaks to form natural shields, and carefully positioned trellising systems to anchor the canopy against the Doctor’s fury. In Swartland, more robust varietals such as Chenin Blanc and Pinotage are trained as bush vines to minimize damage, while planting on slopes with natural barriers further mitigates the wind’s effects. The cooling influence of the Cape Doctor slows ripening, allowing grapes to develop a balance of acidity and phenolic ripeness.

From racy Sauvignon Blancs and elegant Chardonnays, to structured Bordeaux-style blends and concentrated Syrahs, the wines of South Africa reflect the wind’s transformative role in shaping the region’s vines and vineyards. And visitors to Hall 12 at ProWein 2025 can experience the Cape Doctor’s influence without ever leaving Düsseldorf!

Just as Don Quixote learned to navigate between reality and illusion, modern vintners must balance the benefits and challenges of wind exposure. From Argentina’s Zonda (Hall 12) to Switzerland’s Foehn (Hall 4) and Spain’s Levante (Hall 11), each region tells its own taste of adaptation and ingenuity. These are not the imagined giants of La Mancha, but rather real forces that demand real solutions.

As climate chaos intensifies, it is ever more imperative to understand wind’s role in modern viticulture. While few growers cite changes in the wind patterns themselves, the unpredictability of associated weather patterns challenge vineyard management.

These winds are architects as much as obstacles, carving their influence into the very DNA of the vines. Dry stone walls, bush vine training, and windbreaks of cypress and cedar represent a noble and necessary quest to better understand the power of natural forces. Every gust shapes the vineyards, and every windbreak shapes the wine.

Through structured tastings, talks, and discussion with growers, ProWein 2025 provides a platform for understanding how the industry is facing these winds of change, while preserving wine quality and regional character.

Other wine trends covered by ProWein 2025 will include:

• The grapes of (climate) change

• Gone with the wind: When wind is your terroir

• The New East: Europe and The Caucuses