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27 Dec 2021

Tasting Notes jancisrobinson.com

Tasting Notes on our wines, by Julia Harding in www.jancisrobinson.com | The tasting took place 1/10/21

THEMA white 2020 | 16 points/20 - Distinguished

Smells crisp, fresh and citrusy, not dominated by the Sauvignon in terms of the aroma though there is a very slight grassy note. More obviously Sauvignon Blanc on the palate but it’s a very smart blend, the Assyrtiko giving length and an attractive stony aftertaste. Well-packaged, lively dry white, clean-cut and persistent, with added depth from the lees. (JH)
EMPHASIS Assyrtiko 2019 | 17 points | Superior
Very pale gold but darker than a typical young Santorini Assyrtiko. Deeply aromatic, though the aromas themselves are restrained: steely citrus and stone-dust with a slightly green/herbal impression. Wow. This is really powerful on the palate, a noticeable phenolic grip from the skin contact, high acidity and a real stony intensity, finishing with a delicate citrus flavour even though the finish is more about that grip and freshness than about the fruit – even if the fruit is critical for keeping this balanced. Compact, chewy, and likely to be food-friendly with all this structure. (JH)
EMPHASIS Chardonnay 2019 | 16.5 points
More creamy/mealy on the nose than overtly oaky. On the palate, too, the oak is subtle. Rounded in the mouth by the barrel fermentation, contrasting well with the fresh acidity and bright citrus fruit. Youthful and fresh with a light and attractive graininess on the finish adding to the length. I would be hard put to say this was from Greece, or from Drama, but it’s a well-made oaked Chardonnay. Nice savoury aftertaste. (JH)
THEMA rose 2020 | 15.5 points
Bright candy pink, and a bit candied on the nose. Tutti frutti – packed with candied red-fruit aromas. But it is dry on the palate and very fresh. I thought at first it might be a wine for sipping on its own but there is a light tannic grip, suggesting it falls halfway between summer sipper and wine for the table. Slightly sour finish. (JH)
EMPHASIS Agiorgitiko 2016 | 16++ points
Deep crimson with opaque core. This seems more obviously oaky than the Syrah, in a charry darkness rather than sweet spice, though this impression becomes less obvious with air. Thick, chewy tannins balanced by plenty of black fruit and unexpected freshness. Still needs time for the tannins to slim down and more bottle-aged complexity to develop. Still so youthful but full of lovely rich fruit. (JH)
EMPHASIS Tempranillo 2016 | 16.5 points
Very dark cherry red, with plenty of oak still showing in sweetness on the nose but well integrated with ripe black fruits that have the sweetness of dried fruit – without being raisined – and the charry savour of oak. Intense combination. On the palate, chewy, thick, smooth tannins, the texture of chocolate but with the fresh flavour of still-vibrant fruit. Remarkably youthful for a five-year-old wine and still with a way to go to hit its stride. Rich, chewy for now, harmonious and persistent. (JH)
EMPHASIS Syrah 2016 | 16 points | Distinguished
Very dark like black-cherry skins. Savoury, a touch of dark chocolate on the nose. Dark and peppery and deliciously Syrah in aroma. You can taste the oak in a dark/sweet spice but it’s the Syrah that shines in peppery, dark-fruited and dry intensity. Remarkably youthful, though the tannins have started to soften. Chewy and ready now if you drink it with food. Deep-fruited and long, and should continue to age well for a few more years in bottle. Leaner but more elegant than the rich-fruited Agiorgitiko, a little fresher too. (JH)

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