Japan extends from Hokkaido in the north with its Central European cool winters to 3,000 kilometres south as far as the subtropical Okinawa. Sake was originally only brewed in winter. Temperature control now allows for this all year round. Ambitious producers often still prefer to brew small fractions in winter, and some are also adopting the traditions again.
The vintages are not distinguished with sake, and it does not generally mature particularly well. One exception is the yellowish koshu that can age for many years with its honey notes. Taruzake, which is stored in barrels made from the Japanese cypress species Cryptomeria, is often opened on festive occasions after years. Fukurozuri means dripped off from small linen bags, similar to “taille” in champagne, and is one of the highest quality products. “Good sake,” according to Ueno-Müller, “makes people happy.” And many of them like it fizzy.
“Fizzy is the style that is growing most rapidly,” adds her husband Jörg Müller. It is no accident that the floral and fruity, light, sweet flavour components are reminiscent of prosecco. The sparkling wines appeal to the tastes of the masses. However, without any regulations, the quality does differ. “From CO2 injection to bottle fermentation, everything is possible” says Pusch, who has worked in London for a long time, “where the signs also point to light and fruity – and good quality.” Japanese-influenced cuisine is well established in Britain’s capital with its large Japanese community.
Practically every newspaper and magazine in the city has its “best sake places in town” ranking. The Shoryu chain has an uncontested spot on this list. Their blockbuster at the moment is Nigory Cloudy Sake, which Japanese scientists certified a cholesterol lowering effect. Visitors to the many sake bars simply look for the most exotic name on the cocktail menu.
“Sake is extremely varied with its different styles,” knows Fabien Lainé. “Junmai-Ginjo and Nigori,” an unfiltered variety, “are particularly popular internationally.” The qualified sake sommelier has already worked in several countries, and like many foreign sake fans he is fascinated by the Japanese culture and its huge respect for the product.
Exports to Great Britain, however, made up just two per cent of the overall worth with a total value of 2.8 million euro in 2016. With 123 million euro ($137 million), exports reached record highs for the seventh year in a row.
The most important buyers are based in Southeast Asia, namely Hong Kong, Korea, Taiwan and Singapore. Most foreign sake fans live in the USA, where every third exported bottle is opened.
While there are only roughly a thousand Japanese producers left, breweries are being built in Hong Kong and Taiwan. The 51 million US dollar (45 million euro) turnover in the USA has not just bolstered importers. There are now sake breweries from Honolulu to Texas and right up to Maine.
Spirit producers have discovered sake as a sideline, as have glassblowers like Riedel, who are assisting with an appropriately shaped glass.
Names like Nøgne ø (Norway), Ontario Spring Water Sake Company (Canada) or Konsha del Delta del Ebro (Spain) reveal the passion for sake all over the world.
But what is to become of sake in its homeland? “The Japanese pay great attention to what people abroad think of them,” revealed brewery owner Yasakuta Daimon recently to the British Guardian. “So if we are successful abroad, this could boost sales at home again too.” Possibly. Allan Noble, son of Australian and Japanese parents and Director of Sun Masamune’s brewery in New South Wales is doing good business with his sake in Australia. However, he glows with pride when he says that he exports eighty per cent of his production to Japan.
Matthias Stelzig