Diversity and much need for discussion
Meanwhile, Stanko Radikon and Joško Gravner conducted idiosyncratic experiments. The prematurely deceased Radikon sought more expression in his Ribolla Gialla, and realised that the extremely thick skins of the variety needed maceration, in order to release their aromas into the must. As a side benefit, the method also allowed him to use less sulphur. The term orange wine was not yet in sight though.
Joško Gravner fermented white grapes with the skins in Georgian clay amphorae, without worrying about temperature control or oxidation. Out came wines with complex aromas of autumnal fruit and wet earth, which some found hard to understand. Gravner is today the prime reference in the orange wine category, with his wines even on the menu at The Ritz in Paris. Elsewhere, orange wine is often regarded as a rebel cause, which goes hand in hand with hipster beards, big tattoos and a superstructure of biodynamic theory. In the Collio once more, they’re one step ahead. Six winemakers have formed an association specifically to celebrate Ribolla Gialla, with a proposal for the macerated style specifying spontaneous fermentation, at least two years barrel ageing and no temperature control.
A bit of emotion can’t hurt
Even though there are representatives of almost every school today, and not everyone makes orange wine, fermentation is widespread in wooden barrels and concrete tanks. Many exercise some liberty in their choice of variety. This results in different styles such as cold fermented Sauvignon Blancs based on the New Zealand model, or heavily oaked Chardonnays. Good for some cash, but not necessarily good for the profile of the region. “With too much of everything, Collio becomes obscured," even Menotti has to admit. Like many winegrowers, the enologist believes that in the age of varietal wines and lively competition, new rules have to be developed to help the Collio create its profile. “Now is the moment. We stand between revolution and development.” A bit of emotion bridges the gap perfectly.
In addition, winegrowers like to compete with each other. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and the rediscovered Schiopettino, which was once considered extinct, are reminiscent of old red wine times.