Miracolo - solved
Corvinone gives some spice and a high yield, the red berries of the Molinara often give a touch of acidity. "That is on trend," says Daniele Accordini, head of the Cantina Negrar. In spite of this, the percentage is mostly in the one-digit range. There are also a large range of autochthonous varieties such as Pelara or Negrara, Terodola or Rossignola, which idealists like to grow alone. It mostly stays in lovable attempts.
With the composition of grape varieties and four very different wine types, the winegrowers have a great deal of room for manoeuvre stylistically – and are ahead of many competitors. "The Valpolicella classico is therefore responsible for the fresh drinking wine," explains Marco Speri, who implemented the concept almost ideally in his Secondo Marco, with a great deal of bite, animating acidity and dense fruit. A wine which always goes with a piece of meat. He finds it a shame that there are not so many varieties of grape as before.
First of all, the Amarone grapes are faced with the slowest possible drying process, which intensifies the flavours even further. Acidity is reduced, phenols are saturated, glycerine enriches itself. Even the resveratrol content is said to increase, which connoisseurs immediately acknowledge as reducing the risk of heart attack.
Unfortunately, you see the old reed frames and lovingly decorated skylights in a north facing direction, which the Alpine wind is supposed to blow through to dry the grapes, increasingly rarely. Many ambitious wine growers use hygienic plastic boxes and air conditioned rooms, where the drying process runs precisely, and often faster.
However, with the high-tech approach, some of the typical bitter tones – "amaro" means bitter – such as cherry stone and tar in Amarone are lost. It is a shame, they were unique, although the clientele does not miss them. What remained was alcohol contents between 15 and 17%, which wine growers pronounced as "miracolo del amarone". Just a few years ago, it emerged that a particularly alcohol-resistant yeast strain was behind the miracle.
For the Ripasso, literally repetition, the fresh Valpolicella is exposed to the grape pulp of the Amarone again. The concentrated grapes still contain enough sugar for a second fermentation. So, the Ripasso has more fruit, body, sweetness and alcohol. Winegrowers give it the promotionally effective name "Baby Amarone".
"Winegrowers favourite" would perhaps be even more appropriate. The wines are received well in export markets such as the USA, and are significantly cheaper than Amarone. However, there is a flair to finding the right balance here. Although the technology is ancient, Ripasso has only officially been allowed to bear its name since 2007. Up until then, a legal dispute about the name was an obstacle.